Visiting Auray: Morbihan's Hidden Gem

Port Saint-Goustan is the undisputed jewel of Auray and one of the most photographed locations in all of Morbihan. This ancient harbour quarter, where Benjamin Franklin landed in 1776 on his historic mission to seek French support for the American Revolution, has preserved its medieval character with remarkable fidelity. Colourful half-timbered houses lean at charmingly precarious angles over cobblestone quays, while below them the River Loch flows calmly beneath a beautiful stone bridge that has connected the two banks since the 13th century. The waterfront is lined with inviting restaurants and crêperies whose terraces offer the perfect vantage point for soaking up the atmosphere over a long, leisurely meal. On warm evenings, the quayside fills with locals and visitors strolling, chatting and enjoying the golden light that bathes the old buildings in a honeyed glow. Simply sitting on a bench watching the world go by in Port Saint-Goustan is one of the most pleasurable ways to spend an hour in Brittany — the beauty of the setting does all the work for you.

The Monday morning market in Auray is legendary — widely considered the finest market in Morbihan and one of the best in all of Brittany. Every Monday, the streets of the upper town are transformed into a vast open-air marketplace where over a hundred stallholders display the finest produce the region has to offer. The sights and aromas are intoxicating: pyramids of gleaming tomatoes and peaches, barrels of golden cider and chouchen, wheels of aged farmhouse cheese, baskets overflowing with freshly baked bread and viennoiseries, glistening displays of fish and shellfish hauled from the waters just hours earlier. Beyond food, the market also features clothing, leather goods, pottery, flowers and household items, creating a complete and vibrant shopping experience. The setting is magnificent — the market winds through the historic streets of the upper town, past beautiful stone buildings and through shaded squares where musicians often perform. Arriving early is recommended, as the best produce sells quickly and parking becomes increasingly challenging as the morning progresses. This is the market that should be at the top of every visitor's list.

Auray's historic upper town is a delightful maze of narrow streets and elegant squares that rewards unhurried exploration on foot. The Place de la République, the main square, is surrounded by handsome 17th and 18th-century townhouses and is home to the imposing Église Saint-Gildas, whose ornate Baroque altarpiece is considered one of the finest in Brittany. From the square, pedestrianised streets lead past independent boutiques, art galleries, artisan workshops and inviting cafés, each with its own character and charm. The Promenade du Loch, a tree-lined walkway along the river, connects the upper town to Port Saint-Goustan and offers beautiful views over the water and the old harbour below. Auray has a thriving cultural life, with regular exhibitions, concerts and theatrical performances taking place in its various venues throughout the year. The town strikes a perfect balance between preserving its rich historical heritage and maintaining the vitality of a living, working community — it is not a museum town but a real place where real people live, work and celebrate their Breton identity with pride.

Just outside Auray, the Chapelle Sainte-Avoye is one of Morbihan's most remarkable and least-known architectural treasures, offering a glimpse into the rich religious heritage that shaped this region over centuries. This beautiful 16th-century chapel, set in a peaceful clearing surrounded by ancient trees, contains an extraordinary Renaissance rood screen — an intricately carved wooden screen separating the nave from the chancel — that is considered one of the masterpieces of Breton religious art. The polychrome carvings depict biblical scenes with an astonishing level of detail and expressive power that leaves visitors genuinely awestruck. The chapel's exterior is equally impressive, with delicate Gothic tracery, carved gargoyles and a bell tower that stands as a testament to the skill and devotion of the craftsmen who built it five hundred years ago. The surrounding churchyard is a tranquil spot for quiet reflection, and the short walk from the car park through dappled woodland adds to the sense of approaching something truly special. This is one of those hidden treasures that guidebooks often overlook but that enriches a holiday immeasurably when discovered.

Auray is just 15 minutes by car from Le Moulin des Oies Campsite, making it the most convenient town for shopping, dining and cultural exploration during your stay. Parking is available in several car parks around the upper town, though on Monday market mornings these fill up early — arriving before 9 am is strongly recommended if you want to combine a market visit with stress-free parking. The town is compact and best explored on foot, with most attractions within easy walking distance of each other. The descent from the upper town to Port Saint-Goustan is steep but well-maintained, and the views on the way down are spectacular. Auray's shops are open throughout the week, with the usual French midday closure between 12:30 and 14:00 observed by smaller businesses. The town has an excellent tourist office located near the Place de la République that provides maps, event listings and helpful advice in multiple languages. For a complete Auray experience, combine a Monday market morning with a leisurely lunch in Port Saint-Goustan, an afternoon stroll through the upper town and a visit to the Chapelle Sainte-Avoye — a perfect day out that showcases the very best of this enchanting town.